Friday, October 22, 2010

4 October 2010 ~ Shenyang's Forbidden City

Fortunately, I woke up Monday morning feeling much better and was ready to explore Shenyang's Beiling Park and Zhaoling Tomb. Unfortunately, it was Nancy's turn to be sick, so Claire and I made sure she was all snuggled in and taken care of before we met up with Jack at 8:30 to head out and explore.

Shenyang is a vibrant, industrial city rich in history. It's the largest city in northeastern China, the capital of Liaoning Province, and the birthplace of the Qing Dynasty. We only had time to see a fraction of Shenyang's culture and history, so I look forward to another weekend trip in the future to explore more of the city and learn more about its history.

It was cold and breezy when Jack dropped Claire and me off at the gates to Beiling Park (literally meaning "north tomb") and Zhaoling Tomb of the Qing Dynasty.


Beautiful mums wet from the recent rains.


Intricate detail on the gates.
The park itself was huge and we could have spent a whole day (if it was warmer) exlporing the lakes and scenery. What was really nice about this experience was that we felt like we were in a real, authentic, hometown park where the locals go to stroll and get some exercise.
Zhaoling is the mausoleum of the second Qing emperor, Huang Taji, and his empress Xiaoduanwen Borjite and is located inside Beiling Park. The tomb and surrounding park cover an area of 3,300,000 square meters making it the largest of the three imperial tombs north of the Great Wall. The area around the tomb was originally set aside for imperial use and ordinary people (like Claire and me!) were forbidden entry, hence the term "Forbidden City." This forbidden area was opened to the public in 1928 and now forms Shenyang's Beiling Park and is one of the best preserved imperial mausoleums in China.

Lining the entrance to the park are The Stone Animals.

Before heading up to Zhaoling Tomb, we took a wonderful walk around the park area. It was very sweet to see these adorable boats rocking in the water. Would have loved to rent one, but it was just too darn cold!


OK, maybe not all of the boats were adorable.
Is this a dragon or is it a reindeer??
I love this shot of the lake with the city in the background.
The lily pads were massive!

As we walked around the lake there were quiet a few people writing in Chinese Characters on the stone walkway, while others stood around reading the writing. I was later told that the Chinese traditionally come to public areas like this to write poetry, share their life stories, advertise their calligraphy skills, or quote common Chinese sayings.
I felt so blessed and honored to witness this man's elegant calligraphy. This is exactly why I came to China...to be standing in this exact place, learning about a culture so different from my own with its ancient customs and traditions. I stood there with goosebumps as I watched this beautiful tradition unfold in front of my eyes. I'm one lucky woman.
There are three paths that lead to the tomb. The centre path was for the deities only or bearers of offerings. The path of the lefthand (west) of the sacred way was for the ruling emperor and the righthand (east) path was for officials and imperial staff. Halfway along the Royal Way stands a statue of Huang Taiji wearing military dress.

Another wonderful moment, my favorite moment...
As we were walking down the Royal Way we could hear this beautiful traditional Chinese music making its way across the park. Once we drew closer, we saw why. It was like a ballroom full of dancers in the middle of the park! When I stopped to take this picture, the couple you see in the center just below the statue came over and offered to teach us how to dance. I was honored and gladly accepted!
Claire danced with the gentleman and this charming woman led me around the "dance floor" in the most captivating way!
Thank you dear sweet woman for the most precious of memories!
We then walked through scenic paths through the outskirts of the park, then made our way back to the Royal Way leading to the Zhaoling Tomb.
At the northern end of the Royal Way, the route crosses a bridge over a lake...
...beyond which stand a series of gates that mark the entrance to the inner tomb area. The stones you see in the center are part of the original path from the 1600's.
The first gate is made of marble with ornate carvings. Heavy steel supports have been added to the front and back of this gate to prevent it from falling over.



These ornate carvings of dragons were on either side of the second gate, Red Gate, that takes you through the walls that surround the tomb.


The Red Gate has three gateways. The emperor walked through the left one and the ministers used the right one. The middle gateway led to the Divine Road which was prepared for the spirit of Huang Taiji and his queen. Only those who carried sacrifices could pass through the middle gate.
Inside this building is a large steel (very close quarters and too dark to take pictures inside). This steel tells of the deeds done by the dead emperor which is mounted on top of a large turtle. After the passage of time and weathering, you could barely make out the writing, but it was still an amazing sight to behold.
Knock! Knock!
This was the hole in which a post was inserted to lock the gate. It was very reminiscent of a scene from the movie Roman Holiday, so I had to stick my hand inside to see what would happen. : ) Luckily, nothing grab my hand!
The wall surrounding the tomb with stairs leading up.
Once you come through the building with the steel and turtle, to either side of the way stand four buildings. These were used by the Emperor and his staff to prepare themselves and their offerings before the ceremony to honor the past emperor.

Carvings at the peaks of the roof.
Standing on the wall looking north over the center courtyard.
Standing the the southeast turret of the wall around the tomb.
More beautiful detail...
Walking along the top of the wall toward the northeast turret. The Treasured Peak, where the second Qing emperor, Huang Taji, and his empress Xiaoduanwen Borjite were laid to rest, is to my left.

I was very surprised to see that the tomb itself was simply a large earthen mound with a single elm tree growing at the top. I was expecting something much more ornate, but was still in awe none the less.


Claire walking toward one of the turrets along the wall.


At the base of the wall around the tomb.


Walking back toward the entrance.
What a glorious day! Thank you for this day, Spirit. Thank you for this day.

Monday, October 18, 2010

3 October 2010 ~ Benxi Caves

I woke up the morning of October 3 feeling pretty puny with a nasty flu bug that included nausea and fever. It was a day we were moving on to Shenyang with a stop at Benxi Caves along the way. All I wanted to do was pull the covers up over my head, snuggle in, and sleep, but no go. Jack was picking us up at 9:00 and it was on the road again.

After a two hour journey we arrived in Benxi, about 200 kilometers south of Anshan. It was cold, drizzly, and once again very crowed. I put on my best "I'm fine" face, bundled up in the warmest clothes I had (which were not warm enough), and set out to see the Benxi Caves. It was a true indicator that I wasn't feeling well when my camera did not even come out until the end of our journey. It's not a good sign when I don't take at least 50 pictures an hour!

We purchased our tickets, queued up again, and took a very chilly tram ride to the entrance of the cave. There were so many people, one couldn't even tell there was a cave when the tram dropped us off.

And the queue to get inside the cave...it kept going and going and going!! We had to walk all the way to the top of this hill until we found the end of the line. We enquired as to how long the wait was and were given the answer, "Èr xiǎoshí." Translation: Two hours! I was game for calling it a day and cutting our losses (It was actually a pretty big loss...not a cheep entrance fee), but Claire and Nancy were ready to see the caves. So onward we went...at a very slow pace! There were guards stationed about every 20 meters or so, to keep the crowds "in line." (Pardon the pun!) I was very happy about this fact, because there were at least 1,000 times more people in this queue than there were in the tram queue at Qianshun. Thanks to the stern looks and directions from the guards, everyone behaved themselves and there was no pushing and shoving or even a little nudge. Whew!

Once we made it to the front, we were directed into the caves with the masses of people. This is where it got a little tight and claustrophobic and out came the camera. There were still guards all along the way though. The two Americans and one Canadian were definitely a novelty in the crowd and we did get a bit of special treatment from the guards. They let us through when all others were being stopped. We greatly appreciated this!

Ok, so please tell me....where are all these people going to hide?




Do we look a little tired and frazzled?!
Once we made it through the caves on foot, we were led to the boats that would take us deep into the caves. Before we hopped in (and believe me you had to do it quick...they didn't wait around!), we were given jackets to don. They were a bit scary and stinky, but I must say it was the only time I was warm all day long. I just couldn't bring myself to put up the hood though, so I got pretty wet. Better wet than the alternatives my brain was imagining!

Nancy's face sums up our day!
A bit dark here, but we're now on the boat.
Parts of the cave were quite beautiful. The stalagmites and and stalactites were plentiful...but let me tell you it was "It's a Small World" gone very wrong.
I swear the drivers of these boat were TRYING to take the passengers out! And it must have been extra points for the Americans and Canadian! They'd gun the engine around a corner and the next thing you knew...here comes a stalactite...with no warning in a very dark cave!!!!! AHHHHH!!!! If you weren't looking and didn't duck just in time...splash! In the drink you went with a very bad headache!! You may think I'm exaggerating here, so check out this picture. From the state of the stalactite, a few heads had been bashed and a few bodies were knocked overboard.

There was boat, after boat, after boat of people being shepherded far into this cave. I found myself wondering about the ecological impact of all these people and exhaust from all the boats and wishing I was not playing a part in the decay of these beautiful caves. They even allowed smoking inside the cave. I felt myself getting sadder and sadder, the deeper and deeper we went into the cave. Geologically speaking, I don't think this cave will be around much longer if some changes aren't made.




All in all, I must say I wish I had pulled those covers over my head and stayed in bed. Not one of my favorite days so far, but some days are just that way! I was so happy to climb back in the car with Jack and head to the New World Hotel in Shenyang. The moment we checked in, I laid my weary, cold body down to rest, and slept straight through until morning. Ah, the healing powers of sleep.