Friday, October 22, 2010

4 October 2010 ~ Shenyang's Forbidden City

Fortunately, I woke up Monday morning feeling much better and was ready to explore Shenyang's Beiling Park and Zhaoling Tomb. Unfortunately, it was Nancy's turn to be sick, so Claire and I made sure she was all snuggled in and taken care of before we met up with Jack at 8:30 to head out and explore.

Shenyang is a vibrant, industrial city rich in history. It's the largest city in northeastern China, the capital of Liaoning Province, and the birthplace of the Qing Dynasty. We only had time to see a fraction of Shenyang's culture and history, so I look forward to another weekend trip in the future to explore more of the city and learn more about its history.

It was cold and breezy when Jack dropped Claire and me off at the gates to Beiling Park (literally meaning "north tomb") and Zhaoling Tomb of the Qing Dynasty.


Beautiful mums wet from the recent rains.


Intricate detail on the gates.
The park itself was huge and we could have spent a whole day (if it was warmer) exlporing the lakes and scenery. What was really nice about this experience was that we felt like we were in a real, authentic, hometown park where the locals go to stroll and get some exercise.
Zhaoling is the mausoleum of the second Qing emperor, Huang Taji, and his empress Xiaoduanwen Borjite and is located inside Beiling Park. The tomb and surrounding park cover an area of 3,300,000 square meters making it the largest of the three imperial tombs north of the Great Wall. The area around the tomb was originally set aside for imperial use and ordinary people (like Claire and me!) were forbidden entry, hence the term "Forbidden City." This forbidden area was opened to the public in 1928 and now forms Shenyang's Beiling Park and is one of the best preserved imperial mausoleums in China.

Lining the entrance to the park are The Stone Animals.

Before heading up to Zhaoling Tomb, we took a wonderful walk around the park area. It was very sweet to see these adorable boats rocking in the water. Would have loved to rent one, but it was just too darn cold!


OK, maybe not all of the boats were adorable.
Is this a dragon or is it a reindeer??
I love this shot of the lake with the city in the background.
The lily pads were massive!

As we walked around the lake there were quiet a few people writing in Chinese Characters on the stone walkway, while others stood around reading the writing. I was later told that the Chinese traditionally come to public areas like this to write poetry, share their life stories, advertise their calligraphy skills, or quote common Chinese sayings.
I felt so blessed and honored to witness this man's elegant calligraphy. This is exactly why I came to China...to be standing in this exact place, learning about a culture so different from my own with its ancient customs and traditions. I stood there with goosebumps as I watched this beautiful tradition unfold in front of my eyes. I'm one lucky woman.
There are three paths that lead to the tomb. The centre path was for the deities only or bearers of offerings. The path of the lefthand (west) of the sacred way was for the ruling emperor and the righthand (east) path was for officials and imperial staff. Halfway along the Royal Way stands a statue of Huang Taiji wearing military dress.

Another wonderful moment, my favorite moment...
As we were walking down the Royal Way we could hear this beautiful traditional Chinese music making its way across the park. Once we drew closer, we saw why. It was like a ballroom full of dancers in the middle of the park! When I stopped to take this picture, the couple you see in the center just below the statue came over and offered to teach us how to dance. I was honored and gladly accepted!
Claire danced with the gentleman and this charming woman led me around the "dance floor" in the most captivating way!
Thank you dear sweet woman for the most precious of memories!
We then walked through scenic paths through the outskirts of the park, then made our way back to the Royal Way leading to the Zhaoling Tomb.
At the northern end of the Royal Way, the route crosses a bridge over a lake...
...beyond which stand a series of gates that mark the entrance to the inner tomb area. The stones you see in the center are part of the original path from the 1600's.
The first gate is made of marble with ornate carvings. Heavy steel supports have been added to the front and back of this gate to prevent it from falling over.



These ornate carvings of dragons were on either side of the second gate, Red Gate, that takes you through the walls that surround the tomb.


The Red Gate has three gateways. The emperor walked through the left one and the ministers used the right one. The middle gateway led to the Divine Road which was prepared for the spirit of Huang Taiji and his queen. Only those who carried sacrifices could pass through the middle gate.
Inside this building is a large steel (very close quarters and too dark to take pictures inside). This steel tells of the deeds done by the dead emperor which is mounted on top of a large turtle. After the passage of time and weathering, you could barely make out the writing, but it was still an amazing sight to behold.
Knock! Knock!
This was the hole in which a post was inserted to lock the gate. It was very reminiscent of a scene from the movie Roman Holiday, so I had to stick my hand inside to see what would happen. : ) Luckily, nothing grab my hand!
The wall surrounding the tomb with stairs leading up.
Once you come through the building with the steel and turtle, to either side of the way stand four buildings. These were used by the Emperor and his staff to prepare themselves and their offerings before the ceremony to honor the past emperor.

Carvings at the peaks of the roof.
Standing on the wall looking north over the center courtyard.
Standing the the southeast turret of the wall around the tomb.
More beautiful detail...
Walking along the top of the wall toward the northeast turret. The Treasured Peak, where the second Qing emperor, Huang Taji, and his empress Xiaoduanwen Borjite were laid to rest, is to my left.

I was very surprised to see that the tomb itself was simply a large earthen mound with a single elm tree growing at the top. I was expecting something much more ornate, but was still in awe none the less.


Claire walking toward one of the turrets along the wall.


At the base of the wall around the tomb.


Walking back toward the entrance.
What a glorious day! Thank you for this day, Spirit. Thank you for this day.

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